服裝設(shè)計外文翻譯--接縫方式對面料褶皺的效果影響（節(jié)選）

1、<p>　　1200單詞，6200英文字符，2050漢字</p><p>　　出處：Sukumar N, Gnanavel P, Ananthakrishnan T. Effect of Seams on Drape of Fabrics[J]African Research Review Vol. 3 (3), April, 2009. Pp. 62-72</p><p>&l

2、t;b>　　原文 </b></p><p>　　Effect of Seams on Drape of Fabrics</p><p>　　Sukumar N, Gnanavel P, Ananthakrishnan T</p><p><b>　　Abstract</b></p><p>　　Drap

3、e of the fabric is its ability to hang freely in graceful folds when some area of it is supported over a surface and the rest is unsupported. Drape is a unique property that allows a fabric to be bent in more than i

4、n one direction, When two-dimensional fabric are converted to three-dimensional garment form. In the present study, the effects of sewing of different seam were selected on different fabric and their behaviors were

5、studied. In this study drape of ten fabrics are analyzed with thre</p><p>　　Key words: drape, computer aided design, seam, stitch density </p><p>　　Introduction </p><p>　　Drape

6、 is an important property that decides the gracefulness of any garment as it is relates to aesthetics of garments (Kaushal Raj sharma and B.K. Behera. 2005). The mechanical properties of fabrics were first

7、 studied during the late 19th century by German researchers working on developing airships (Postle, 1998). Drape ability has been regarded as a quantitative characteristic of cloth, and several devices as well as vi

8、rtual systems have been developed to measure it (Booth, 1968; Jeong, 1998; </p><p>　　When a fabric is draped; it can bend in one or more directions. Curtains and drapes usually bend in one direction, wh

9、ereas garments and upholstery exhibit a complex three-dimensional form with double curvature. Hence, fabric drape is a complex mathematical problem involving large deformations under low stresses (Postle, 1993).

10、0;</p><p>　　A plain seam the most typical seam found extensively in apparel is the simplest type in which a single row of lock stitches joins two pieces of fabrics together. Thus, investigating the effe

11、ct of a plain seam on fabric drape has a significant value for both the textile and clothing industries. The quantified drapeability of a fabric into a dimensionless value called a “Drape coefficient”, which is defi

12、ned as the percent of the area from an angular ring of fabric covered by a vertical projection </p><p>　　Drape profile of fabrics with seams provide guidance for garment designs and producers in the apparel

13、industry and improve the understanding of drape properties corresponding to different seam features (Fourt.L and Hollies.N.R.S.1970). Furthermore, we expect that the results will be useful in predicting garment drap

14、e with clothing CAD systems. </p><p>　　Different types of seams are used in garment making and also wide stitch densities are employed. Once the fabric is joined with seams possibly its drape confi

15、guration would vary. </p><p>　　The product range of textile industry has extended to the garments. Mass production of operational systems and automated sewing is making more and more presence, it i

16、s very essential to understand to the change in properties the fabric under goes once it is seamed. This study is an attempt to understand the effects of seams on the drape of fabrics, which is one of key characteri

17、stics for apparels and certain draperies. </p><p>　　Types of Seam </p><p>　　The types of seams were selected and in each type, three stitch densities were employed. Fabrics were sewn a

18、long the warp and weft direction on a 35cm square side. Control sample for the test is a piece with no seams. This resulted in 9 treatment combinations. </p><p>　　(1) Plain Seam (S1) </p>

19、;<p>　　This is the most common seam used in the garment industry. This is easy to make and pliable. It is normally suitable for all types of garments. And, it is suitable for curved locations like a

20、rmhole. To make this seam we have to place two pieces of fabrics to be joined together right sides facing, matching the seam lines, and we should stitch the seam exactly on the seam line.</p><p>　　(2) W

21、elt Seam (S2) </p><p>　　For constructing this, we should stitch the plan seam and press both seam allowances to one side. Then the inside seam allowance is trimmed to ”. Then top stitching is done

22、on the right side of the garment by catching the wider seam allowance. This type is normally used on heavy coats. </p><p>　　(3) French seam (S3) </p><p>　　The French seam is stitched t

23、wice once from the right side and once from the wrong side. It is the classic seam for sheers and looks best if the finished width is or less. To form this seam, with wrong sides of the fabric together, we shou

24、ld stitch “3/8” from the edge on the right side of the fabric. The seam allowance in trimmed to “1/8” and the seam is pressed well. Then the right sides are folded together with stitched line exactly on the edg

25、e of the fold and pressed again. Then the stitches </p><p>　　Conclusion A study on effect of seams on the drape coefficient Drape profile is been made. Three types of seams namely three stitch dens

26、ities 5, 4 and 3 per centimeter has been employed. Ten fabric verities containing different fibres weaves are analyzed. Drape coefficients significantly differs between the fabrics also between the seam stitch

27、density combination. The Drape Coefficient alone may not give a clean idea of real drape. For this purpose the drape profiles were generated with the help</p><p><b>　　譯文 </b></p>

28、<p>　　接縫方式對面料褶皺的效果影響</p><p>　　安娜斯克里斯蘭 紡織學院教授</p><p><b>　　摘要 </b></p><p>　　褶皺是服裝面料的一個內(nèi)在特性，這使得它能夠優(yōu)雅地掛在服裝面料的表面，特別是當面料的有些區(qū)域需要用到褶皺的時候。褶皺有一個獨特的屬性，那就是它允許將織物以一個或多個方向彎曲，由此，

29、可以將二維平面的服裝織物轉(zhuǎn)換為三維的服裝形式，這樣一來，服裝的立體裝飾感就會變得更強。在目前的研究中，有許多專家學者們對縫紉方法的選擇進行了很多研究。在本文的這項研究中，主要分析了十面料褶皺設(shè)計，它含有三種類型的接縫和三針密度的縫線。選取一個沒有接縫的樣品作為一個參照樣品，以用來對褶皺樣本與參照樣本進行一個比較分析。本文提出了一種基本的縫合織物褶皺分析。服裝面料的褶皺行為可以通過懸垂系數(shù)顯示出來，還有接縫對衣物面料中褶皺效果的影響。不同

30、的褶皺面料之間的系數(shù)是顯著不同的，它們的縫合密度之間也不同。通過對縫合織物的褶皺進行調(diào)查，可以提高未來的織物應(yīng)用水平。 </p><p>　　關(guān)鍵詞: 褶皺；計算機輔助設(shè)計；接縫；縫合密度； </p><p><b>　　引言 </b></p><p>　　褶皺是一個重要的屬性，它決定了服裝的優(yōu)雅程度，因為它與服裝美學是密切相關(guān)的(考沙爾和布哈

31、拉，2005)。在 19 世紀末，德國的研究人員第一次研究織物的力學性能，這一研究的成果，后來還被用于其它行業(yè) (波斯特爾,1998)。褶皺的程度被認為是服裝布料的一大特征 (波特,1968；宋,1968；斯黛麗,1999)。服裝的褶皺程度可以通過儀器測量出來（楚等人，1950)，后來由卡西可于 1965和 1968 年使用特殊的方法展示出了一個圓形的褶皺影子標本。撇開技術(shù)上的研究，在最近幾年，對服裝織物褶皺的調(diào)查已經(jīng)吸引了許多研究者的

32、注意，因為目前服裝行業(yè)內(nèi)正試圖實現(xiàn)服裝的計算機輔助設(shè)計，將該系統(tǒng)引入到設(shè)計，決定織物性能的織物褶皺則是關(guān)鍵元素。很明顯，服裝的面料必須以不同的形式縫在一 起才能形成完整的衣物。衣服的縫合處處理的如何會大大地影響織物的褶皺樣式 (馬特斯黛拉，2000)。必須要意識到，一件衣服的外觀不考慮到面料的接縫和服裝面料的拼接組合方法，這是不現(xiàn)實的。 (胡等人，1997)。 </p><p>　　當一個服裝織物需要用到褶皺工藝

33、時，褶皺可以服裝布料在一個或多個方向的彎曲拼接。一般飾物的褶皺通常在一個方向彎曲，而服裝和裝飾則需要用到一種復(fù)雜的立體褶皺工藝。因此，織物褶皺是一個復(fù)雜的研究問題，涉及到很多方面的考慮 (波斯特爾,1993)。 </p><p>　　普通的接縫在服裝中是最典型的，接縫中，最廣泛流傳的，也是最簡單的類型就是使用單個行鎖針，將兩塊面料連接在一起。因此，在紡織品和服裝行業(yè)中，調(diào)查普通接縫對面料褶皺的效果，是具有重大價值

34、的。服裝織物拼接的量化值稱為“懸垂系數(shù)”。通過它來對織物的褶皺程度進行量化分析(娜拉哈瑞和特拉奇，2005)。雖然有用，但不足以描述復(fù)雜服裝的褶皺形式。斯黛麗和朱在 1997 年，認為懸垂系數(shù)本身并沒有充分反映褶皺面料的審美質(zhì)量。 </p><p>　　面料的褶皺形狀與接縫形式，服裝設(shè)計中和生產(chǎn)中，起著指導(dǎo)作用，需要運用不同的接縫方法，不斷改善衣物面料的褶皺效果 ( 福特和霍利斯，1970)。此外，我們預(yù)計本文的

35、研究結(jié)果，在進行服裝的褶皺設(shè)計中式很有用的。 </p><p>　　服裝制造中，不同類型的接縫和不同密度的接縫得到了廣泛地使用。一旦面料中使用了接縫，那么其褶皺效果可能會有所不同。 </p><p>　　紡織工業(yè)的產(chǎn)品范圍已經(jīng)擴展到服裝行業(yè)。大規(guī)模生產(chǎn)的運營系統(tǒng)和自動縫紉正越來越普遍，所以，很有必要的對接縫的屬性進行研究。本研究是為了了解不同的接縫形式對衣物面料褶皺效果的影響，這是服裝行業(yè)

36、中的一個關(guān)鍵性屬性。 </p><p><b>　　接縫的類型 </b></p><p>　　選取的接縫類型中，每種類型的接縫都使用了三針密度?？椢锏慕涌p沿經(jīng)紗和緯紗的 35 厘米方向。選取的參照樣品是一塊沒有接縫的織物。接縫的類型如下所示： </p><p>　　(1)普通接縫 (S1) </p><p>　　在服裝行

37、業(yè)中，這是使用中最常見的接縫。這種接縫很容易處理，并且很柔軟。它通?？梢赃m用于所有類型的衣服。它也同樣適用于服裝織物中，一些彎曲 的位置，比如：袖孔。使用這種接縫，我們可以將兩塊面料的相鄰兩邊配合起來縫接，匹配度比較好，應(yīng)該沿著接縫線來進行縫接。 </p><p>　　(2) 貼邊縫(S2) </p><p>　　對于這種接縫的使用，需要用針有計劃地沿著壓縫進行縫接。然后在里面進行平行縫接

38、”。然后，在服裝面料的右邊使用更寬的縫頭線。這種類型接縫方式通常用于沉重的外套。 </p><p>　　(3)法式接縫 (S3) </p><p>　　法式接縫的縫合是縫兩次，一次從右邊開始，一次從另外的一邊。如果成品寬度不足的話，最好是使用人字起重架的經(jīng)典縫方式。使用這種接縫，需要將織物錯和在一起，我們應(yīng)該從邊緣縫合 3/8 右邊的織物。削減 1/8 的子口，并且縫壓好。然后兩邊折疊縫合

39、在一起，邊緣的褶皺再壓一次，縫合以褶皺的方式進行。 </p><p><b>　　結(jié)論 </b></p><p>　　本文主要研究了接縫對褶皺效果的影響。分析了三種類型的接縫，三針密度的縫合分別為 5、4 和 3 厘米。十織物事實上包含了對不同的纖維織物進行了分析。不同的面料縫接密度和衣物褶皺的影響也是不同的。 </p><p>　　褶皺的程度