服裝設計外文翻譯--多層橫機針織織物面料的開發(fā)

1、<p><b>　　譯 文</b></p><p>　　原文題目： Development of Multi-Layer Fabric </p><p>　　on a Flat Knitting Machine </p><p>　　譯文題目： 多層橫機針織織物面料的開發(fā) </p><

2、;p>　　學 院： 服裝與藝術設計學院 </p><p>　　專業(yè)班級： 服裝與藝術設計專業(yè) </p><p>　　學生姓名： </p><p>　　學 號：

3、 </p><p><b>　　譯文:</b></p><p>　　多層橫機針織織物面料的開發(fā)</p><p><b>　　摘要</b></p><p>　　循環(huán)傳輸技術被用于開發(fā)一種計算機化多針距的橫機上的一個多層編織織物?？椢镉扇龑咏M成：內汗布，中間1X1金銀絲和，外汗布。通過改變環(huán)長度

4、的多層針織織物樣品生產的，即CCC-1，CCC-2和CCC-3。上述多層織物分別用24秒的組合紗原料中饋電線3，4和4氖棉針織。采用線性回歸環(huán)路長度的WPC上，中國共產黨和氣密性因素的影響進行了研究。所產生的多層編織物的水蒸汽和空氣透過性性能進行使用ANOVA分析。原材料的變化在三個單獨的層可以用作功能性面料的生產,技術和工業(yè)應用。</p><p>　　關鍵詞：多層織物，線圈長度，移圈，透氣性</p>

5、<p><b>　　1.引言</b></p><p>　　能夠制造工程結構在二維,三維微懸臂,多層針織面料。功能包括個人針選擇、壓低伸卡球的存在,貨架,轉移和調整喂養(yǎng)設備與CAD相結合。分層織物更適合比單層面料功能和技術的應用程序。這些面料可能non-splitable(分支編織結構、鍍織物間隔織物)和splitable(雙層、多層)。兩種不同面料的功能性針織結構層根據不同紡織

6、組件(疏水性和親水性紡織材料)是用于生產休閑裝,運動裝和防護服,提高舒適度。分離層聚丙烯接觸皮膚,和吸收層時將外面的一層棉用于針織物。</p><p>　　結構化針織面料制成的服裝工廠分支促進運輸汗水從皮膚的外層織物非?？?讓穿著者更加舒適。分支針織面料制成的不同組合滌棉紗線不同線密度和各種針織羅紋機生產的結構提高水運屬性。鍍針織物的水分舒適特性很好,報告的作者發(fā)現從三層鍍織物棉(40s),萊卡(20 D)和超細

7、聚丙烯(55分特/ 72 f)被用作原料的臉,中間和地面層分別[2]。多層織物的應用程序在可穿戴電子產品越來越寬。新穎的多功能纖維結構包括三個分層織物嵌入式電子健康監(jiān)測。氨綸織物由5%,95%的聚丙烯- 1 stlayer,2層組成的金屬纖維進行電流嵌入式電子產品+ PCM和第三層是由高度親水的棉花。在橫機織物,兩個表面(U、V、M - X,y型)和表面三層(U-face,U -曲折和X形)間隔織物是由玻璃纖維和聚丙烯混合輕質復合應用程

8、序[5]。H Cebulla等產生三維執(zhí)行開放長方體和球殼使用針停車方法。重點是在個人領域的機針選擇分析鈑制帶輪近凈執(zhí)行附近的生產。矩形核心結構的多層針織織物(連接層:肋)、三角核心結構(連接層:聯鎖裝置)、蜂窩芯材結構(連接層:球衣加上肋),三面結構1(連接層不是交替),三面結構2(連接層交替)就</p><p>　　在這個方向針織橫機當選產生可剝離多層織物不同循環(huán)長度和循環(huán)轉移技術。女警官循環(huán)長度的影響,黨和

9、緊張因素是研究個人三層織物。重要的水蒸氣滲透性等織物的透氣性能和空氣滲透率進行了研究。這種織物使用的生產技術已經廣泛的應用,如功能,技術紡織品和可穿戴的紡織品。 </p><p><b>　　2.材料和方法</b></p><p>　　多層編織物如CCC-1，CCC-2和CCC-3棉紗與24S的線密度氖是在針織feeder.For層狀織物的發(fā)展，一個計算機化的多針距的

10、橫機進料并生產分別合并送紗被選定象圖3,4和4中，表IQM Wang和所示H.胡是選擇的紗線原料中的4的范圍內 - 10用于生產玻璃纖維紗復合增強在平坦的針織機。積分充分老式服裝之間的中間用的是“半計量或針停車”技術生產。僅交替針上各床的橫機的使用被用于縫合形成，剩余的針沒有參加縫合形成在同一過程，但所形成的線圈保持在針頭，直到再次用于縫合形成，從而釋放針被用作臨時停車的地方環(huán)傳遞。對于生產多層織物，充分塑造服裝，循環(huán)轉移線圈是面板的重

11、要組成部分。磨合上桿被用于循環(huán)通過手動或自動的轉移從一個針到根據在機器上的另一針。</p><p>　?。ㄒ唬┻f送針被抬起由在托架的凸輪。環(huán)路伸過來的傳送彈簧。 </p><p>　?。ǘ┙邮茚樕晕⑵x其針床上升。接收針進入遞送針的傳送彈簧并穿過將要傳送的循環(huán)。 </p><p>　?。ㄈ┨峁┽槼吠肆粝碌慕邮茚樠h(huán)。轉移春天打開允許接收needleto移回其關閉

12、。最后，循環(huán)轉移完畢。</p><p><b>　　(1)面料開發(fā)</b></p><p>　　使用斯托爾M1.PLUS5.1.034軟件進行模擬示于圖2.In Figure3，進料器1，2和3的選針圖案被用于三個層織物（內單面針織，中間-1X1金銀絲的形成和外汗布）分別。與編織線圈的外層部和內層針織織物是通過選擇在每個床的交替工作針的方式形成。但中間層織物通過免費針

13、在每個床上移圈和編織針的幫助下形成的。</p><p><b>　　(2)性能測試</b></p><p>　　所產生的多層編織物被賦予了松弛過程和以下試驗進行。針織物性能列于表中。織物的剖視圖示于圖4。</p><p>　　圖4 多層編織物的斷面圖</p><p><b>　　(3)線圈密度</b>

14、;</p><p>　　課程和在外部，中間和內層樣品的縱行密度分別計算在每平方厘米的織物。平均密度的長度和寬度取為討論的方向。</p><p><b>　　(4)線圈長度</b></p><p>　　在多層織物的各種組合的外，中，內層，20中的循環(huán)過程被解開并測量紗在厘米（LT）的長度。從LT值針跡長度/線圈長度是使用</p>&

15、lt;p>　　線跡長度/環(huán)路長度以cm（L）=（LT）/20（1）</p><p>　　平均循環(huán)長度（cm）的一部分取出并且報導在表中。</p><p><b>　　(5)緊密系數</b></p><p>　　針織的緊密度的特點是緊密系數（K）。已知的是，K是在一個循環(huán)包括的紗線由循環(huán)占據的區(qū)域的面積的比率。它也是編織結構的相對松動或密封

16、性的指示。為了測定TF的中和下式用于</p><p>　　密性因子（K）=√T/升（2）</p><p>　　其中T =在特克斯紗線線密度，升=織物在厘米的環(huán)路長度。三層（外層，中層，和內層）分別計算的TF被列于表中。 </p><p>　　該多層編織織物的水蒸氣滲透性進行了分析，并顯示在圖8可以觀察到，一個線性趨勢隨后水蒸汽滲透性和環(huán)路長度之間。與增加的環(huán)路長度，

17、有每單位面積較小的阻力，所以，織物的透氣性屬性也增加。方差分析數據顯示增加環(huán)路長度得到在多面料[F（2,15）> Fcrit]的水蒸汽滲透性的顯著差異。該回歸分析CCC-1和CCC-2和CCC-2和CCC-3之間進行用于研究的紗線feeds.R2值的數量的影響示0.755兩個比較。織物的水蒸氣滲透性的高度由在織物和較少的循環(huán)由送紗在織物的數目的長度的影響。</p><p>　　該多層編織fabricswas

18、的透氣性分析，并示于圖中可以觀察到，CCC-1，CCC-2，和CCC-3織物的透氣度是線性的環(huán)路長度。</p><p>　　如在織物環(huán)的長度增加，透氣度也增加了。所述Anova-單因素分析也證明了有在來自不同環(huán)路長度[F（2,15）> F暴]在表中示出產生多層織物的透氣性特性之間的5％顯著性水平顯著差異。研究組合紗線進料的影響，該回歸分析CCC-1和CCC-2和CCC-2和CCC-3之間進行。它顯示了R2=

19、0.757。所以，織物的空氣滲透性可以不依賴于紗線供給的數量，但由環(huán)路長度更影響。</p><p><b>　　4.結論</b></p><p>　　使用循環(huán)傳輸技術在針織橫機,多層織物開發(fā)不同循環(huán)長度。循環(huán)對長度、密度和緊度的因素進行了分析?；诜治鲆韵陆Y論:</p><p>　　與各種基本結構（單面和1x1的雙反面）生產的多層織物，環(huán)路長度

20、的層之間的變化沒有顯著區(qū)別.木塑和協調會與來自CCC組合多層織物制作的環(huán)路長度成反比。結合紗線飼料是一個重要因素影響個人的緊張因素和循環(huán)長度層針織面料。水蒸氣和多層編織織物的透氣性能的各個層的緊密性因子和環(huán)長度通過隨后的結合紗線中環(huán)長度的變化是高度影響的重要因素。</p><p><b>　　譯文原文：</b></p><p>　　Development of Mul

21、ti-Layer Fabric on a Flat Knitting Machine</p><p><b>　　Abstract</b></p><p>　　The loop transfer technique was used to develop the a splitable multi layer knit fabric on a computerized

22、 multi gauge flat knitting machine. The fabric consists of three layers: inner-single jersey, middle-1X1 purl and, outer-single jersey. By varying the loop length the multi layer knit fabric samples were produced,namely

23、CCC-1, CCC-2 and CCC-3. The above multi layer fabrics were knitted using 24s Ne cotton of combined yarn feed in feeders 3, 4, and 4 respectively. The influence of loop length </p><p>　　Keywords: multi layer

24、fabric, loop length, loop transfer, permeability prope</p><p>　　1.INTRODUCTION</p><p>　　capable of manufacturing engineered fabric in two dimensional, three dimensional of bi-layer, and multilay

25、er knit fabrics. The feature includes individual needle selection, the presences of holding down sinkers, racking, transfer, and adapted feeding devices combined with CAD. The layered fabrics are more suitable for functi

26、onal and technical applications than single layer fabrics. These fabrics may be non-splitable (branching knit structure, plated fabric, spacer fabric) and splitable (bilayer,</p><p>　　Garments made of plant

27、branch structured knit fabrics facilitate the transport of sweat from the skin to the outer layer of the fabric very fast and make the wearer more comfortable. Qing Chen et al .reported that the branching knitted fabrics

28、 made from different combinations of polyester/cotton yarns with varying linear density and various knitted structure produced in rib machine improved water transport properties. The Moisture comfort characteristics of p

29、lated knitted fabric was good, report</p><p>　　In this direction the flat knitting machine was elected to produce splittable multi layer knit fabric with varying loop length and loop transfer techniques. The

30、 influence of loop length on wpc, cpc and tightness factor was studied for the three individual layers in the fabric. The important breathability properties of the fabric such as water vapor permeability and air permeabi

31、lity were studied. The production technique used for this fabric has wide applications such as in functional wear, techn</p><p>　　2.MATERIALS AND METHODS</p><p>　　The production of multi-layer k

32、nit fabrics such as CCC-1, CCC-2 and CCC-3 cotton yarn with the linear density of 24s Ne was fed in the knit feeder.For layered fabric development, a computerized multi gauge flat knitting machine and combined yarn feed

33、was selected like 3, 4 and 4 respectively, shown in the Table I. Q. M. Wang and H. Hu [9] was the selected yarn feed in the range of 4 – 10 for the production of glass fiber yarn composite reinforcement on a flat knittin

34、g machine. The intermediate b</p><p>　　needle parking” technique. The use of only alternate needles on each bed of the flat knitting machine was used for stitch formation, The remaining needles did not parti

35、cipate in stitch formation in the same course,but the loops formed were kept in the needle head until employed for stitch formation again, thus freeing needles to be used as temporary parking places for loop transfer . F

36、or production of layered fabric and fully fashioned garment, the loop transfer stitch is essential part of the p</p><p>　　FIGURE. 1. Principle of loop transfer.</p><p>　　(a)The delivering needle

37、 is raised by a cam in the carriage. The loop is stretched over the transfer spring. (b)The receiving needle is raised slightly from its needle bed. The receiving needle enters the transfer spring of delivering needle an

38、d penetrates the loop that will be transferred. (c)The delivering needle retreats leaving the loop on the receiving needle. The transfer spring opens to permits the receiving needleto move back from its closure. Finally

39、, loop transference is completed.</p><p>　　TABLE I. Machine & Fabric parameters.</p><p>　　(1) Fabric Development</p><p>　　Using STOLL M1.PLUS 5.1.034 software the needle selecti

40、on pattern was simulated is shown in Figure 2.In Figure3, feeder 1, 2 and 3 are used for the formation of three layer fabric (inner-single jersey,middle-1X1 purl and outer-single jersey) respectively. With knit stitches

41、the outer and inner layer knit fabrics are formed by means of selecting the alternate working needles in each bed. But the middle layer fabric is formed by free needles in each bed with the help of loop transfer and knit

42、 stit</p><p>　　FIGURE 2. Selection of Machine & pattern parameters.</p><p>　　FIGURE 3. Needle diagram for the multi-layer knit fabric.</p><p>　　(2) TESTING</p><p>　

43、　The produced multi layer knit fabric was given a relaxation process and the following tests were carried out. The knitted fabric properties are given in Table II. and the cross sectional view of the fabrics is shown in

44、Figure 4. </p><p>　　FIGURE 4. Cross Sectional view of Multi-layer knit fabric.</p><p>　　(3) Stitch Density</p><p>　　The courses and wale density of the samples in outer,middle and i

45、nner layer were calculated individually in the direction of the length and width of the fabric.The average density per square centimeter was taken for the discussion.</p><p>　　(4) Loop Length</p><

46、p>　　In outer, middle and inner layers of various combinations in multi layer fabric, 20 loops in a course were unraveled and the length of yarn in cm (LT) was measured. From the LT value the stitch length/loop length

47、was measured by using</p><p>　　Stitch length/loop length in cm (L) = (LT)/20 (1)</p><p>　　The average loop length (cm) was taken and reported in Table II.</p><p>　　(5) T

48、ightness Factor (K)</p><p>　　The tightness of the knits was characterized by the tightness factor (K). It is known that K is a ratio of the area covered by the yarns in one loop to the area occupied by the l

49、oop. It is also an indication of the relative looseness or tightness of the knitted structure. For determination of TF the following formula was used</p><p>　　Tightness Factor (K) = √T/l

50、 (2)</p><p>　　Where T= Yarn linear density in Tex, l = loop length of fabric in cm. The TF of three layers (outer, midd le, and inner) were calculated separately is given in Table II.</p><p&

51、gt;　　TABLE II. Multi-layer knitted fabric parameters</p><p>　　3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION</p><p>　　The water vapor permeability of the multi layer knit fabrics were analyzed and shown in Figure 8.

52、 It can be observed that a linear trend is followed between water vapor permeability and loop length. With increases in loop length, there is less resistance per unit area, so, the permeability property of the fabric als

53、o increased. Anova data show increases in loop length yield a significant difference in the water vapor permeability of the multi fabrics [F (2, 15) > Fcrit]. The regression analysis </p><p>　　The air per

54、meability of the multi layer knit fabricswas analyzed and is shown in Figure 8. It can be observed that the air permeability of the CCC-1,CCC-2, and CCC-3 fabrics is linear with loop length.</p><p>　　FIGURE

55、8. Water Vapor Permeability & Air Permeability of fabric.</p><p>　　As loop length in the fabric increased, air permeability also increased. The Anova- single factor analysis also proves that there is a s

56、ignificant difference at 5 % significance level between the air permeability characteristics of multi layer fabrics produced from various loop length [F (2, 15) > F crit] shown in Table IV. To study the influence of t

57、he combination yarn feed, the regression analysis was done between CCC-1 and CCC-2 and CCC-2 and CCC-3. It shows R2 =0.757. So, the air permeabilit</p><p>　　4. CONCLUSIONS</p><p>　　In flat knitt

58、ing machine using a loop transfer technique, multi layer fabrics were developed with varying loop length. With respect to loop length, the loop density and tightness factor were analyzed.Based on analysis the following c

59、onclusions were made:</p><p>　　TABLE III. Permeability Characteristics of Multi-layer knit fabrics.</p><p>　　TABLE IV. ANOVA single factor data analysis.</p><p>　　For multi-layer fa

60、bric produced with various basic structures (single jersey and 1x1 purl), the change of loop length between the layers has no significant difference.The wpc and cpc had an inverse relationship with the loop length produc

61、ed from CCC combination multilayer fabrics.The combination yarn feed is an important factor affecting the tightness factor and loop lengths of the individual layers in knitted fabrics.The water vapor and air permeability