外文翻譯--紡織服裝業(yè)全球化過程中哪些是新的，哪些不是

1、<p>　　2000單詞，10480英文字符，2200漢字</p><p><b>　　外文翻譯</b></p><p><b>　　原文</b></p><p>　　Globalization in the Apparel and Textile Industries:What is New and What

2、is Not?</p><p>　　Material Source: Locating Global Advantage: Industry Dynamics in a Globalizing Economy </p><p>　　Stanford University Press, 2003--Forthcoming <

3、/p><p>　　Author: Frederick H. Abernathy, John T. Dunlop, Janice H. Hammond, and David Weil </p><p>　　It would be disingenuous to deem globalization of the textile and apparel industries a recent ph

4、enomenon. As the above quote from Bruce Reynolds makes clear, the movement of textile and apparel products across international boundaries predates recent decades or even the twentieth century. Indeed, international trad

5、e in apparel and textile goes back well before the periods described above and has been a favorite example of the gains from trade used by economists going back to David Ricardo. So wh</p><p>　　The answer is

6、 that there is “old news” and “new news” in this story. The old news is that the movement of apparel and textile products between nations arises from the comparative factor costs and productivities for labor, capital and

7、 other inputs between nations and their impact on product costs, as modified by transportation, insurance, and related costs. Similarly old news is that the flow of goods is mediated by changes in international exchange

8、rates, as evidenced most recently during the As</p><p>　　So, is there anything “new” about the globalization of apparel and textiles? This question has particular policy salience given that the current syste

9、m of bilateral agreements on quotas for apparel and textiles(the Multi-Fiber Arrangement)that has been in place for decades will come to an end in 2005 and that in the years following that, China will also became a full

10、player in a “quota-free” world of trade under the World Trade Organization(WTO).Many commentators surveying and forecasting the fu</p><p>　　There is “new news” to be told about globalization. That news chall

11、enges some of the notions about what will drive change in the flow of apparel and textile goods in the next decades. Although factor prices and comparative productivity, exchange rates, transportation costs, and tariffs

12、will continue to affect patterns of sourcing, a new set of factors related to the distribution of products plays an increasingly important role.</p><p>　　Before looking at actual patterns of trade in the Uni

13、ted States, we sketch out the important changes that have occurred in the distribution of products in the U.S. market. We then, through a brief presentation of a model of on-shore versus off-shore production, demonstrate

14、 why the calculus of sourcing decisions has changed. With this as grounding, we turn to the evidence on the national origins of apparel products sold in the U.S. market and describe major shifts in those sourcing pattern

15、s. We t</p><p>　　New factors in global sourcing: Lean retailing and the supplier problem</p><p>　　Lean retailing and product proliferation</p><p>　　Two changes profoundly affect the

16、 problems faced by suppliers of consumer industries: the spread of a new form of retail distribution in the U.S., “l(fā)ean retailing,” that now characterizes much of the retail sector; and increasing product proliferation o

17、f consumer goods. Lean retailing and product proliferation together change the basic production problem facing suppliers and supply chains. As we will develop below, this in turn changes one of the key drivers of interna

18、tional sourcing of apparel </p><p>　　In contrast to the infrequent, large bulk shipments between apparel manufacturers and retailers under the traditional retail model, lean retailers require frequent shipme

19、nts made on the basis of ongoing replenishment orders placed by the retailer. These orders are made based on real-time sales information at the stock keeping unit level(or SKU, the specification of the product at the mos

20、t detailed level),that is collected at the retailer's registers via bar code scanning, and aggregated centrall</p><p>　　Product proliferation compounds the problem posed by lean retailing because supplie

21、rs must provide a growing number of products on a replenishment basis. Even the apparent sameness of products like men’s dress shirts masks a much larger set of offerings. A Lands’ End pinpoint oxford dress shirt, made o

22、f 80s two-ply cotton, and available only in white or blue seems the most basic of apparel. Along with the usual choice of neck and sleeve length, the customer may choose from four collar types and </p><p>　　

23、Product proliferation means that a quantity of demand that might have been spread across 100 different products in 1980 might now be spread across 1000.If those products are provided on a replenishment basis, each week t

24、he supplier awaits the electronic “call” of its retail customers to tell which one should be sent. For many products, the call may be an infrequent and unpredictable event—even for a large manufacturer.</p><p&

25、gt;　　Take the case of a major jeans manufacturer that sells about 100 million pair of jeans per year. Since the manufacturer carries somewhere between 25,000 and 40,000 SKUs at one time, average annual sales per SKU equa

26、l between 2,500 and 4,000.That means, it will sell on average only between 48 to 77 units of a typical SKU per week. Although popular SKUs may sell 10 or even 100 times as many per week, less popular items may sell less

27、than 10 in any week across all retail stores in the U.S.</p><p>　　The confluence of product proliferation and lean retailing profoundly changes the problem faced by a supplier. Supplier responsiveness to rep

28、lenishment orders is central to lean retailing. Dealing with variability in demand has therefore become crucial to suppliers competing in a lean retailing world. Even for basic products, demand varies from day-to-day and

29、 from week-to-week. Thus, even if a retailer follows the simplest strategy of ordering at the beginning of each week exactly those items th</p><p>　　The manufacturer’s problem and its impact on global sourci

30、ng</p><p>　　Most apparel producers search for ways to decrease their production costs. One of the most popular is to go to offshore producers or contractors that have lower labor costs, even though their tra

31、nsportation cost and lead times are higher than for local producers. A manufacturer providing goods to the U.S. market must balance the benefits of more proximate but costly sources that offer short-cycle local productio

32、n against lower cost offshore operations that require far longer lead times.</p><p>　　Lean retailing demands that an apparel manufacturer be able to fill retailers’ orders on three to five days notice; hence

33、 the requested items must be in finished goods ready to pick and pack the individual store's specific orders. The replenishment orders for any given Stock Keeping Unit(SKU)vary considerably from week to week, even wh

34、en the orders from all retail outlets are aggregated together. To meet this weekly variation in demand the apparel manufacturer must carry significant levels of fi</p><p>　　A measure of the variability of de

35、mand for a given SKU is its coefficient of variation(C-defined as the standard deviation of weekly demand divided by the average weekly demand).In modeling the sourcing decision, we use the C of each SKU in a given style

36、 as one of the inputs to the production scheduling process. Other inputs are the factory cycle time(the time from placing an order until it is delivered to the manufacturer's Distribution Center(DC)),the cost of fabr

37、ic and trim delivered to the f</p><p>　　Generally speaking, if you assemble products in locations distant from the retail market in order to take advantage of existing low labor costs, then transportation co

38、st are higher and lead times longer than if you assembled the garments closer to the DC. If you assemble far away and use low cost transportation, then the cycle time is much longer than if you manufactured closer to the

39、 DC. If your distant factory's cycle time is much longer than the nearby plant's, then to provide the same level </p><p>　　Lean retailers wish to minimize their in-store inventory for each SKU, hence

40、 retailers’ demand that their orders be fulfilled at a very high rate, typically 95%or higher. Such order fulfillment constraints imply higher FG inventories. Without retailers' constraints on order fulfillment or th

41、e penalties they assign to suppliers with low service levels, it might be more profitable for a manufacturer to miss an occasional sale to a retailer rather than carry the inventory to meet the demand. The im</p>

42、<p>　　The following simulation illustrates the trade-offs facing such a firm. The simulation allows us to compare the profit and inventory levels from using different combinations of a short cycle local plant and a

43、much slower offshore plant. In this example, it is assumed that the production costs of the short cycle plant are 20%higher than the offshore plant and the production cycle times are 2 weeks(short cycle)and 11 weeks(offs

44、hore).The scheduling algorithm employed in the simulation involves load</p><p><b>　　譯文</b></p><p>　　紡織服裝業(yè)全球化過程中：哪些是新的，哪些不是</p><p>　　資料來源:全球優(yōu)勢定位：經濟全球化中的產業(yè)動態(tài)</p>&l

45、t;p>　　斯坦福大學出版社，2003 </p><p>　　作者：Frederick H. Abernathy, John T. Dunlop, Janice H. Hammond, David Weil</p><p>　　將紡織服裝業(yè)全球化視作最新現象是不能成立的。從布魯斯?雷諾茲的引言中就說明了這一點，跨國間的紡織服裝產

46、品貿易在幾十年前或者說是在二十世紀前就形成了。事實上,國際紡織服裝貿易可以上溯到上面提到的年代以前，自大衛(wèi)?理查德以來都是經濟學家所喜愛使用的貿易獲利的例子。那么探討紡織服裝業(yè)的全球化又有何意義呢？</p><p>　　問題的答案在于在紡織服裝業(yè)全球化這一命題里有新與舊的區(qū)分。舊的部分指的是服裝和紡織品跨國貿易是由于國家間不同的要素成本、勞動生產率、成本和其他投入以及因此而產生的對于產品成本的影響，包括運輸、保險

47、和相關成本。同樣的，舊的部分也指國際匯率變化對于商品流通的影響，最近發(fā)生的亞洲金融危機就是一個典型例子。最后，與數世紀前一樣，配額和關稅依舊影響全球服裝紡織品貿易，各國通過配額和關稅來實現保護其剛剛萌芽的服裝紡織業(yè)（通常被視作是產業(yè)化政策的基礎）的愿望，免于外部競爭。</p><p>　　那么關于紡織服裝業(yè)全球化的新的部分呢？新的部分表現在具體的政策上，執(zhí)行數十年的現行雙邊紡織服裝配額協定系統（多種纖維協定）將在

48、2005年取消，接下來的幾年里，中國將逐步成為國際貿易組織（WTO）下“免配額”世界的正式成員。許多評論家研究預測未來的發(fā)展將取決于以上提到的舊的要素，伴隨大量商品轉移到勞動力成本低的亞洲國家，特別是中國，全球紡織服裝業(yè)采購將會面臨快速轉移。美國許多紡織服裝制造商、政府機構、工會官員和各國政府都贊同這一觀點，正如我們所會看到的那樣，他們將會是全球化近期內的受益者。</p><p>　　關于全球化還有許多新的方面。

49、這些新的方面需要一些觀念來解釋，比如在未來幾十年里促使服裝紡織品流向改變的會是什么。盡管價格因素、相對生產率、匯率、運輸成本和關稅將繼續(xù)影響采購模式，與產品配送相關的一系列因素將扮演越來越重要的角色。</p><p>　　在研究實際美國貿易模式之前，我們來概括一下在美國市場產品配送方面發(fā)生的重要改變。之后，通過簡要闡述離岸和在岸生產模型，演示采購決定數理分析變化的原因?；谝陨戏治?，研究美國市場上所售服裝產品的原

50、產國，并描述這些采購模式的主要變化。給出貿易法中主要變化對于全球紡織服裝采購貿易的影響（有些人稱之為轉移），我們針對2005年貿易條款中的內部變更，以及基于我們調查發(fā)現的服裝紡織采購模型的外部進行評估。最后將有關于服裝紡織的研究與本文主題相關聯進行總結。</p><p>　　全球采購中的新要素：敏捷銷售與供應商問題</p><p><b>　　敏捷銷售與產品擴散</b>

51、;</p><p>　　敏捷銷售與產品擴散這兩大改變極大地解決了消費業(yè)供應商所面臨的問題。敏捷銷售，作為美國零售配送新形式，這一方式的擴張，現在已經定義了零售商的大部分職責。這兩種因素共同改變了供應商和供應鏈面臨的基本生產問題。如下文中將要展開說明的那樣，這一點又反過來改變了服裝產品國際采購中重要的一項主要驅動力。</p><p>　　與在傳統銷售模型下，服裝制造商和零售商之間少見的大型整

52、批運輸不同，敏捷銷售者需要根據零售商不停更新的訂單進行不斷地發(fā)貨。這些訂單是基于實時的庫存單位（SKU）銷售信息制定的，零售商的登記員通過條形碼掃描收集庫存單位并匯總?；谶@些數據產生的訂單被送到供貨商手里，每個門店一周一次。隨著敏捷銷售的出現，供貨商必須在一個銷售季內不斷補充其產品。傳統模式下，供貨商只根據單一市場回饋，固定數量的定量在發(fā)貨日期前很早就提前發(fā)出，與此不同，敏捷銷售需要補貨單在少于3天內生成。敏捷銷售跨越不同零售配送渠道

53、的擴散——包括批發(fā)商、百貨公司、專賣店，這意味著服裝和紡織供貨商在單一銷售旺季里的產品補貨率相當高。</p><p>　　產品擴散將敏捷銷售提出的問題結合起來，供貨商必須在補貨基礎上提供不斷增加的產品數量。即使像男士西服襯衫這樣表面上看起來單調的產品業(yè)也擁有相當大的市場。一件Lands’ End針孔牛津紡西服襯衫，材質為80s的雙層棉，僅有白色和藍色這兩種最基本的款式。根據頸部和袖長的通常選擇，顧客會從四種不同款

54、式的領子和三種剪裁（常規(guī)，修身，高大）中作出選擇。這件基本款西裝襯衫，消費者可選購的不同組合的數目達到了577.4.，然而這僅代表該公司供應的男士針孔西裝襯衫的一個系列。加之其他不同體重，材質，純色，條紋，格子的組合，產品款式立刻就有上萬種了。</p><p>　　產品擴散意味著在1980年需求可能已在100個不同的產品數量，而現在則需要超過1000個以上。如果這些產品是由補貨為基礎提供的，那么每周供貨商都在等著

55、零售商的電話來得知那件產品應該補貨。對于許多商品而言，這樣的電話是少見和不可預料的事情——即使對于大型制造商而言。</p><p>　　拿一家年銷售額1億的大型牛仔褲生產商為例。由于制造商同一時間在某地存在25000到40000的庫存單位，2500到4000之間的庫存單位等于其平均年銷售額。這就意味著，它每周只能銷售掉48到77庫存單位。盡管熱銷的產品庫存單位會高出10賠甚至100賠，不受歡迎的產品也有可能在美國

56、所有零售商店銷量少于10件。</p><p>　　產品擴散和敏捷銷售的整合極大地改變了供應商所面臨的問題。供應商響應補貨訂單是敏捷銷售的核心。因此對于供貨商而言，處理多變的供貨要求的能力在敏捷銷售的實際中競爭變得特別重要。即使是基本產品，供貨要求每天每周都在變化。因此，即使零售商在每周開始前準確地根據前一周的產品銷售情況制定最簡便的訂單策略，制造商也必須每周時刻做好供應未知數目的產品。由于很少有制造商能夠在限定的