織物服裝濕傳遞性能不同測(cè)定方法的對(duì)比外文文獻(xiàn)翻譯

1、<p><b>　　附件3：</b></p><p><b>　　外文翻譯</b></p><p><b>　　譯文一</b></p><p>　　織物/服裝濕傳遞性能不同測(cè)定方法的對(duì)比</p><p><b>　　摘要</b></p>

2、;<p>　　現(xiàn)有幾種測(cè)定織物/服裝汽態(tài)水滲透或濕阻的方法，這些方法相互之間的區(qū)別與聯(lián)系并沒(méi)有得到明確提出，這引出了一個(gè)新的命題，即通過(guò)對(duì)比不同測(cè)定方法的結(jié)果，找出它們之間的區(qū)別與聯(lián)系。本課題致力于調(diào)查4種典型測(cè)定方法，包括“濕傳遞測(cè)試法（模型CS-141）”、“ASTM（美國(guó)材料與試驗(yàn)協(xié)會(huì)，英文全稱American Society for Testing and Materials）E96正立水杯法”、“新式熱阻濕阻儀器

3、測(cè)試法”和“出汗暖體人體模型（Walter）測(cè)試法”，所得到的結(jié)果相互之間的聯(lián)系。實(shí)驗(yàn)結(jié)果表明，鑒于測(cè)試所用的針織物的透氣性的差異范圍，盡管這4種方法的結(jié)果由于在不同的環(huán)境下進(jìn)行測(cè)試而存在些許差異，但它們?nèi)匀淮嬖谥芮新?lián)系。因此，不同測(cè)試方法的結(jié)果經(jīng)過(guò)適當(dāng)調(diào)整可以相互轉(zhuǎn)換。</p><p>　　關(guān)鍵詞：織物，汽態(tài)水傳遞比率，織物舒適性，濕阻</p><p><b>　　2.測(cè)試方

4、法</b></p><p><b>　　2.1測(cè)試樣品</b></p><p>　　此項(xiàng)實(shí)驗(yàn)的樣品為8塊功能性T恤面料商品，其中4塊的織物組織為雙羅紋，另外4塊為平紋。這些樣品代表了市場(chǎng)中典型的T恤面料。在模擬試穿者試穿效果的實(shí)驗(yàn)中，這些面料被縫制成了長(zhǎng)袖T恤，穿在出汗暖體人體模型（Walter）身上。表1列出了實(shí)驗(yàn)所用面料的主要規(guī)格參數(shù)。</p&g

5、t;<p>　　表1 T恤面料樣品的主要規(guī)格參數(shù)</p><p><b>　　2.2 實(shí)驗(yàn)測(cè)量</b></p><p>　　2.2.1 水分傳遞測(cè)試法（模型CS-141）</p><p>　　此項(xiàng)測(cè)試所用的儀器水分傳遞測(cè)試儀由Ludlow公司開(kāi)發(fā)。該公司聲稱這臺(tái)儀器能夠快速簡(jiǎn)便地測(cè)定織物水傳遞比率。此項(xiàng)測(cè)試是基于“氣體滲透規(guī)律”進(jìn)

6、行的。這條規(guī)律是指質(zhì)量傳遞比率與面料阻隔水分滲透的能力、面料上下兩側(cè)的壓強(qiáng)差以及該面料的厚度相關(guān)。圖1展示了水分傳遞測(cè)試儀的結(jié)構(gòu)。小密閉水箱兩側(cè)的夾子將面料樣品夾在其垂直方向的正中間。面料下方是高度低于水槽一半的蒸餾水，上方是在測(cè)試開(kāi)始時(shí)經(jīng)過(guò)干燥劑干燥過(guò)的空氣。水箱內(nèi)水的表面至面料下表面的空氣間隙的高度為10mm。這個(gè)水箱被放置在一個(gè)溫度為20℃，相對(duì)濕度為65%的密室中。實(shí)驗(yàn)過(guò)程中，水汽從潮濕的一側(cè)（面料下方）經(jīng)面料樣品傳遞至干燥的一

7、側(cè)（面料上方），濕度傳感器保持著對(duì)水箱上半部分濕度變化的監(jiān)測(cè)。在濕度從50%上升至60%這個(gè)時(shí)間段內(nèi)，相對(duì)濕度的上升值每隔3分鐘被記錄一次。以g重計(jì)的每h每m2汽態(tài)水傳遞比率可通過(guò)將數(shù)據(jù)帶入下列等式中計(jì)算得到。 </p><p>　　T = (269 × 10?7)(Δ%RH × 60/t)(H)/(100 × 0.02252) (1)</p><p>

8、　　式中：Δ%RH—上半層與下半層之間的相對(duì)濕度差值的平均值；t—兩次成功讀取數(shù)據(jù)的時(shí)間間隔（t=3min）；H—水箱單位體積的水含量（H=45.74gm-3）。</p><p>　　圖1 水傳遞性能測(cè)試儀結(jié)構(gòu)</p><p>　　2.2.2. 美國(guó)材料與試驗(yàn)協(xié)會(huì)E96正立水杯法</p><p>　　此種方法是一種非常常用的測(cè)試織物水分傳遞性能的方法。在環(huán)境恒溫恒濕

9、和織物面積已知的條件下，這種方法可用于測(cè)定織物垂直方向汽態(tài)水傳遞的比率。圖2展示了這種測(cè)試方法的原理。一個(gè)被織物樣品覆蓋住的裝有蒸餾水的杯子被放置在溫度20℃，相對(duì)濕度65%的可調(diào)節(jié)環(huán)境中。實(shí)驗(yàn)開(kāi)始時(shí)，往杯子內(nèi)倒入80g的水，這將面料下表面至水面的距離確定為19mm。這項(xiàng)測(cè)試長(zhǎng)達(dá)5天，期間每個(gè)杯子質(zhì)量變化都會(huì)每天記錄一次。每小時(shí)每平方米的汽態(tài)水傳遞比率（WVTR）可以通過(guò)將數(shù)據(jù)帶入以下等式中得到。</p><p>

10、;　　WVTR =G/tA (2)</p><p>　　式中：G—有織物覆蓋住的杯子的重量變化值；t—杯子質(zhì)量變化的時(shí)長(zhǎng)，以h計(jì)；A—測(cè)試的織物樣品的面積，以m2計(jì)。</p><p>　　圖2 ATSM E96汽態(tài)水傳遞測(cè)試的原理</p><p>　　2.2.3. 新式熱阻濕阻儀器測(cè)試法</p><p>　　新式熱阻濕阻儀器由Fan等人開(kāi)

11、發(fā)。這臺(tái)儀器符合ISO（國(guó)際標(biāo)準(zhǔn)組織，英文全稱International Organization for Standardization） 11092中明確規(guī)定的測(cè)試要求。與傳統(tǒng)的熱阻濕阻儀器相比，它使對(duì)水分蒸發(fā)散熱損失和水分蒸發(fā)損失這兩者的模擬測(cè)試的同時(shí)進(jìn)行成為可能。此外，這臺(tái)儀器可以零下在溫度的條件下運(yùn)行。圖3展示了該儀器的構(gòu)造和工作原理。</p><p>　　圖3 新式熱阻濕阻儀器</p>

12、<p>　　通過(guò)對(duì)蒸發(fā)散熱損失的測(cè)定可得知，放在多孔板、夾在人造皮膚和空氣層之間的織物樣品的總濕阻可通過(guò)將數(shù)據(jù)帶入下列公式中得到。</p><p><b>　?。?）</b></p><p>　　式中：Ret—總濕阻；A—織物樣品的覆蓋面積（A=0.0444 m2）；Pss—人體皮膚溫度（被控制在35℃）條件下浸透水汽壓強(qiáng)；Psa—環(huán)境溫度條件下浸透水汽壓強(qiáng)

13、；Ha是環(huán)境相對(duì)濕度（%）。</p><p>　　實(shí)驗(yàn)中，首先在儀器上平鋪5層同一品種的面料樣品，等待穩(wěn)定后第一次讀取Ret值。然后取下一層面料，此時(shí)儀器上剩下4層面料，讀取Ret值。依此推類，直到所有5層面料都被拿掉。接下來(lái)，將獲得的Ret值參照讀取時(shí)織物的層數(shù)繪制成統(tǒng)計(jì)圖，再利用線性回歸原理調(diào)整后繪制出近似原曲線的直線，這條直線的斜率就是每層織物樣品的濕阻的大小。</p><p>　　

14、2.2.4.出汗暖體人體模型（Walter）測(cè)試法</p><p>　　Walter是由Fan和他的同事研發(fā)的世界上第一種出汗暖體人體模型。圖4展示了一個(gè)在測(cè)試中穿著T恤的出汗暖體人體模型。這項(xiàng)測(cè)試是在室溫20.0±5℃，相對(duì)濕度65.0±2%，風(fēng)速0.5±0.3ms-1的恒溫恒濕實(shí)驗(yàn)室中進(jìn)行的。</p><p>　　圖4 出汗暖體人體模型（Walter）&l

15、t;/p><p>　　八塊面料樣品被縫制成尺寸一樣的服裝。測(cè)試過(guò)程中，人體模特下半身穿著的褲子始終保持一致?？倽褡杞?jīng)過(guò)推算后可用以下方程式計(jì)算得到。</p><p><b>　?。?）</b></p><p>　　式中：A—人體模型的表面積；Pss—人體皮膚溫度條件下浸透水汽壓強(qiáng)；Psa—環(huán)境溫度條件下浸透水汽壓強(qiáng)；Ha—環(huán)境相對(duì)濕度（%），Res

16、代表事先矯正過(guò)的織物濕阻（Res=8.6m2PaW-1）；He—水分蒸發(fā)熱能損失（He是通過(guò)將水分蒸發(fā)熱量損失帶入公式He = λQ得到的）；λ—人體皮膚溫度（34℃）條件下水分蒸發(fā)所吸收的熱量（λ=0.67Whg-1）；Q—每小時(shí)水分蒸發(fā)所損失的熱量比率。</p><p><b>　　4.結(jié)論</b></p><p>　　在這項(xiàng)研究中，4臺(tái)儀器被用于測(cè)定功能型透氣T

17、恤運(yùn)動(dòng)面料/服裝的汽態(tài)水傳遞比率或濕阻。通過(guò)這項(xiàng)研究可以得知，對(duì)于典型的功能型T恤面料，從4種測(cè)試方法，即 “濕傳遞測(cè)試法（模型CS-141）”、“ASTME96正立水杯法”、“新式熱阻濕阻儀器測(cè)試法”和“出汗暖體人體模型（Walter）測(cè)試法”存在著密切聯(lián)系。這項(xiàng)研究中的任何一種測(cè)試方法得到的結(jié)果可以通過(guò)使用關(guān)聯(lián)趨勢(shì)曲線與另一種方法得到的結(jié)果進(jìn)行對(duì)比。關(guān)聯(lián)度曲線中存在的一些誤差可以解釋為由面料種類和測(cè)試條件的不同所造成的。</p

18、><p>　　作者：F Kar, J Fan and W Yu</p><p>　　國(guó)籍：香港（香港理工大學(xué)紡織與成衣制作系）</p><p>　　出處：《測(cè)量科技》雜志 2007年第18卷</p><p><b>　　原文1</b></p><p>　　Comparison of different

19、 test methods for the measurement of fabric or garment moisture transfer properties</p><p><b>　　Abstract</b></p><p>　　Several test methods exist for determining the water vapour perm

20、eability or resistance of textile fabrics or garments. The differences and interrelationships between these methods are not always clear, which presents a problem in comparing results from different test methods. This st

21、udy is aimed at investigating the relationships between the test results from four typical test methods, including the moisture transmission test (Model CS-141), ASTM E96 cup method, sweating guarded hot plate method<

22、/p><p>　　Keywords: fabric, water vapour transmission rate, clothing comfort, water vapour resistance</p><p>　　2. Methods</p><p>　　2.1. Samples</p><p>　　Four interlock and

23、four single jersey functional T-shirt fabrics were chosen from commercial sources for the experiment. The samples represent typical T-shirt fabrics in the market. The fabrics were sewn into long-sleeved T-shirts for the

24、tests on the sweating fabric manikin (Walter) and the wearer trial experiments. Table 1 lists the characteristics of the fabrics used in this study.</p><p>　　Table1 Characteristics of T-shirt fabric samples&

25、lt;/p><p>　　2.2. Objective physical measurements</p><p>　　2.2.1. Moisture transmission test (Model CS-141). </p><p>　　The moisture transmission tester was developed by Ludlow Corp., wh

26、ich was claimed to be a fast and simple method to measure the moisture transmission rate of the fabric materials. It is based on the application of the gas permeability law which proposes that the mass transfer rate is p

27、roportional to the permeability of the barrier, the pressure differential across the barrier and the reciprocal of the barrier thickness. The construction of the moisture transmission tester is shown in figure 1. S</p

28、><p>　　T = (269 × 10?7)(Δ%RH × 60/t)(H)/(100 × 0.02252) (1)</p><p>　　where %RH is the average of the differences of relative humidity values between the lower and upper halves of

29、the cell, t is the time between successive readings (t = 3 min) and H is the water content in the air at the cell temperature (H=45.74gm-3).</p><p>　　Figure1 Construction of the moisture transmission tester.

30、</p><p>　　2.2.2. ASTM E96 water vapour transmission test</p><p>　　The ASTM E96 cup method is a very common method for testing the moisture transfer ability of fabrics. It is used to measure the

31、rate of water vapour transmission perpendicularly through a known area of a fabric to a controlled atmosphere. In this method, as shown in figure 2, a sample covers a cup containing distilled water and placed in a contro

32、lled environment of 20℃,65% relative humidity. By adjusting the initial weight of water in the cup to 80 g, the air gap was set to</p><p>　　19 mm. The tests lasted for 5 days and the weight of each cup was r

33、ecorded daily. The water vapour transmission rate (WVTR) in grams per hour and per square metre was calculated by the following equation:</p><p>　　WVTR =G/tA (2)</p><p>　　where G is weight cha

34、nge of the cup with fabric sample in grams, t is the time during which G occurred in hours and A is the testing area in square metres.</p><p>　　Figure2 The principle of the ASTM E96 water vapour transmission

35、 test.</p><p>　　2.2.3. Sweating guarded hot plate</p><p>　　This instrument was developed by Fan et al. It meets the requirements specified in the testing method of ISO 11092. Compared with conve

36、ntional sweating guarded hot plates, it allows simultaneous measurement of evaporative heat loss and water loss. The instrument can also be placed in subzero conditions for testing. Figure 3 shows the schematic diagram a

37、nd the apparatus of the instrument.</p><p>　　Figure3 Sweating guarded hot plate</p><p>　　From the measurement of the evaporative heat loss, the total moisture vapour resistance of the fabric sam

38、ple on the plate together with the manmade skin and the surface air layer can be calculated by</p><p><b>　　(3)</b></p><p>　　where Ret is the total moisture vapour resistance, A is th

39、e sample covering area (A = 0.0444 m2), Pss is the saturated vapour pressure at the skin temperature (controlled at 35 ℃), Psa is the saturated vapour pressure at the ambient temperature and Ha is the ambient relative hu

40、midity (%).</p><p>　　During the testing, five layers of fabric samples were first placed on the instrument. After stabilization, the Ret value, when five layers of fabric samples were placed, was measured. T

41、hen one layer of fabric sample was taken off and the Ret value, when four layers of fabric samples were placed, was measured. The experiment continued with the Ret value for one, two, three, four and five layers of sampl

42、es being obtained. The Ret value was then plotted against the number of layers in a graph. Aft</p><p>　　2.2.4. Sweating fabric manikin (Walter)</p><p>　　Sweating fabric manikin (Walter) is the f

43、irst sweating fabric manikin developed by Fan and his co-workers. Figure 4 shows the manikin wearing a T-shirt during the test. The experiment was carried out in a climatic chamber at 20.0 ± 0.5℃ and 65.0 ± 2%

44、RH with an air velocity of 0.5 ± 0.3 m s?1.</p><p>　　Figure4 Sweating fabric manikin (Walter)</p><p>　　The T-shirts made of the eight fabrics were all in the same size. During the tests, th

45、e pants were kept the same for all T-shirt samples. The total moisture vapour resistance was calculated using the following formula:</p><p><b>　?。?）</b></p><p>　　where A is the surfa

46、ce area of the manikin, Pss is the saturated vapour pressure at the skin temperature, Psa is the saturated vapour pressure at the ambient temperature and Ha is the ambient relative humidity (%), and Res is the moisture v

47、apour resistance of the fabric skin which was calibrated in advance (Res=8.6m2PaW-1, He is the evaporative heat loss. He was calculated from the measurement of evaporative water loss, He = λQ, where λ is the heat of evap

48、oration of water at the skin temperature</p><p>　　4. Conclusions</p><p>　　In this study, four instruments were used to evaluate the water vapour transmission rate or moisture vapour resistance o

49、f air permeable functional T-shirt fabrics/garments. It can be concluded from this investigation that, for typical functional T-shirt fabrics, the test results from the four test methods, namely themoisture transmission

50、test (ModelCS-141),ASTM E96 cup method, novel sweating guarded hot plate and the sweating fabric manikin (Walter) correlate well. The results from each of these</p><p>　　explained by the effect of the differ

51、ent testing conditions on the different types of fabrics.</p><p>　　Author：F Kar, J Fan and W Yu</p><p>　　Nationality：Hong Kong (Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic Univ