海岸-碎波拍-問題的數值模型研究.pdf

1、大連理工大學碩士學位論文海岸“碎波拍“問題的數值模型研究姓名：葉文亞申請學位級別：碩士專業(yè)：港口、海岸及近海工程指導教師：董國海20000601ABSTRACTIncoastalzone10wfrequenc3’waveorsurfbeathasailimportanteffectonsedimenttransport，harboroscillationsandshipmotionsThispaperstudiedthefollowin

2、gtWOimportantsubjects：Firstly，RadiationstressiscalculatedbyFunctionStreamWavetheory(FSW)AnalysingfromthefundamenmldefinitionofRadiationstress，thepapergotthevelocityofwaterparticleandwaveelevationinonewaveperiodneededonca

3、lculatingRadiationStressbyFSWtheory，andtheRadiationStreSSona矗xedsectionacrossshorelineOnafixedtimewillbegottenThePadiaionstressonachangeablesectiononachangeabletimewillbegottensmoothly，T11isistheideaofcomputingRadiations

4、tressbyFSWtheorySecondly，thenoNinearnumericalmodeloflowfr嘶uencywavesproducedbymonochromaticwave、bichromaticwaveandrandomwaveswerestudiedThelongwaveequationswerederivedfromEularequationsbytimeaverageovershortwavesperiodIn

5、ordertoconsiderthebreakingoflowfrequencywavesonthebeach，thenumericaltechniquesusedarebasedontheSO—calledWeightedAveragedFlux(WAF)method，withtimeoperatorsplitting(Tos)usedforthetreaWaentoftheSOUXCetermsrelatedtadiationstr

6、essandbosomfrictionnlismethodWasusedpreviouslybylineartheoryoncomputingRadiationstressItseemsdesirabletOmakeuseofanonlineartheoryatleastwhenwavesgetclosertotheshorewherenonlineareffectswillbecomeimportantThispaperwilluse

7、FSWtheorytocomputethevalueofRadiationstressThenonlinearsurfbeatmodelofmonochromaticwave、bichromaticwaveandrandomwaveswerestudiedandcomparedwiththecorrespondingpublishedexperimentalresultsInthesanqetimethepaperstudiedthes

8、electionoftheparametersinallofthreemodelsInrandomwavesmodel，thepaperuseFastFourierTransform(FFT)methodtOtransformprocesslinesexpressedbytimeseriestotheformofwavespectrumComparedwithlineartheorytheyareinbeaeragreement謝tle